The Crux

. After leaving Yellowstone, we knew we only had one more big set of mountains to get over before we hit the plains of the Midwest. The Big Horn Mountains in Wyoming didn't have an ominous ring to it, but we started to get worried when, after leaving Greybull, we continued to go downhill. It was 91 miles from Greybull to Sheridan, with a 9,000 foot pass in between. We've done other hard days like it and figured we would just have to push through. But, we were starting at 3,700 ft in elevation.

The day was beautiful. The sun was finally shining again, and we wound our way through Shell Canyon, past layers of rock that were as old as 500 million years. Then without warning, the climb started. Switchback after switchback, we crawled up the mountain. After a while, the scenery blurs and all you are focused on is the white line. Once I would catch myself, I remembered advice that a dear friend gave me as I left for this trip: "don't forget to look up." 

There were fields of lupine, arnica, and Indian paintbrush. There were chirping Western Tanagers and  mule deer peering out from the edges of trees. And, I saw ten moose! Even with the patches of snow at 9,000 ft, signs of spring were all around. Exhausted after 20 miles of climbing up 8% grade, I was still in fairly good spirits when we reached the pass. Of course, the stares of amazement, thumbs up, and cheers from the passing cars helped. 

However, Granite Pass was not your normal pass. Instead of a much-expected downhill, it plateaued for another twenty miles. Heck, there were even more uphills! And the wind was brutal. It was the strongest headwind we've ever had. It felt like we were on a treadmill and at times large gusts would almost knock us over. Honestly, I was angry. We had worked so hard to make it to the top, and this is what we got. It was demoralizing. Pedal after pedal, we finally reached a sign telling trucks to check their brakes. Hallelujah! 

With dark storm clouds ahead and cliffs on the side, we started the twenty mile switchback-laden descent. We rolled into a gas station twenty miles from our destination in time to hear tornado warnings and news of a storm with softball-sized hail.  It was 7:30 and starting to get dark. Thankfully, our host for the evening offered to pick us up and bring us back to her place. It wasn't easy for me to agree to get a ride, but perhaps this is also part of the journey. Learning when to give grace to yourself and allow others to help you. 

Our hosts, Harriet and Paul, were angels. They had dinner made for us, a warm shower, and nice beds. We realized that this journey is not only ours. When we make room, there are people who want to join us on our adventure. These instances add color and beauty to the trip; it is learning how to make room for the unexpected and the hospitality of strangers. 

[The crux refers to the climax. It is a term used in rock climbing to refer to the hardest part of the climb.  But once you have made it past the crux, you know you can do whatever is next - mentally and physically. Are you silly? We're still gonna send it!]

Can you see the moose?